On rereading my last edition I realise I was under pressure on the camp internet and tiredness, a lot of ediring needed! Well we headed of on the next part of our trip which should have beenspectacular views but unfortunately of fortunately on review we had a lot of rain. The trip through Arthurs Pass in a Motorhome is a test in patience, perseverence and skill in handling the road and you all know that I possess those in abundance! The roads again were very windy and surrounded by incredible rain forests and the rain really highlighted the impression. Everything is just so big and vast, it all goes on for so long even the ferns grow like trees! We were getting a little bit nervous as the diesel guage was going down and no sight of civilization and with 4 kilometres left we idled into a town, Aisling said she had total confidence in me but I'm not sure.
We arrived in Franz Josef around 7/8 that evening in the rain and mist and it did not look promising for a walk on the glacier the next day, so we just drove up to near where the walk would start. En route I stopped the car to take some snaps of broken chunks of ice coming in torrents down the flood from the glacier. When we arrived near the bottom of the glacier the feeling I had was not what I expected. When you see a photo of one you acknowledge what it is but I quite quickly felt a strong affinity for this 'living' force and felt very sad for some reason. I felt an angry resignation on its behalf, people up gazing at it and planning their trek the next day while it was spewing out 'broken teeth' already battered by those who had gone before and throwing them into the flood. I was relieved in the end that the next day brought no change in the weather, the fact I was a little worried about slipping and suffering a bone injury may also have had something to do with it!
Next day after a lazy start we headed south towards Wanaka which is close to Queenstown. This was again a journey of discovery and admiration of how the New Zealanders take pride in what nature has provided them with. We travelled along the west coast but slightly inland and again the the rain forests were awe inspiring but the waterfalls like nothing I have ever seen or imagined. They went on and on one bigger and stronger than the next intermingled with veins of water falls supplying life to the forests and land below. At times it was like both sides of the road were vying for dominance with the sheer power and force of their deluges. I found it difficult to figure out what way rivers were flowing. We finally arrived in Wanaka and spent the night there and the next day visited puzzle world. Now anyone with access to the internet google this. It is ingenious and yet such a simple concept and a great idea for any country to create as an attraction for natives and visitors alike. We also looked at doing a sky dive but though the day was beautiful a wind had got up so not suitable, Aisling is determined to get ne up there!
Arrived in Queenstown last night and had my family together so looking forward to Xmas. Did a big shop for dinner as I think I am cooking Xmas dinner for 8 but only I told them if they get their act together and 'spring clean' the joint, Santa's motorhome Grotto would be a bit of a crush!
With that I wish you all a very Happy and Peaceful Xmas and hopefully I will be speaking to some of you soon. Peace and calm from a glorious Nez Zealand.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
the Catlins to Akaroa via Dunedin and Oramaru
Well this was not the exciting trip that I had become used to but still wonderful. For any of you following my blog in Bangladesh and my explanation about the 'Chars' well I crossed many bridges that covered 'chars' like and unlike the ones in Banbladesh, both created by the force of wate but with different outcomes and in NZ anyway people were ot depending on their livlihoods to survive of them. The river beds are so immence yet the flow of water appears to have decreased over the years and in the grand scheme of things I don't know how that will effect this amazing country. The penguin scenario did not quite work out the way I had hoped for but I did see them up close and with babies but not in the numbers I had hoped for.
I continued up the coast towards Christchurch on sunday before meeting Aisling and enterd into this incredible area of to the east which had the name of being very french even though they only inhabited it for a decade or more before the english joined them in the 19th century. This is where Akaroa is and it was the end of my journey on sunday night. I was again not prepared for the dramatic change in the terrain, I entered an area of soft alpine hills, winding roads and the most incredible views. I climbed 7 kilometres that any rally driver would be proud of and then descended another 12 of similar winding roads to get to my final destination, it was exhilerating and just glorious. I came upon Barry Bay followed by Robinson Bay joined together by the sea and followed on by Children's Bay, I thought this is a good ome for my niece Jackie and her Kiwi hubbie Craig and the new addition to their family in Feb and a healthy sibling for Maggie May. The fact that french bay was in there somewhere was a little eerie but so sign of schorderet Bay so no spookiness there. I enjoyed a lovely evening in the hills in my wonderful motorhome overlooking Akaroa with a G n T a beautiful moon and stars that Gabs tells me are not the same as ours but I can't understand that anyway thats for anothe day.
The next day I toured the little 'french' village which was quaint and attractive and then headed off to collect no. 1 child. I took the scenic route out of there which I initially thought could not be as beautiful as my arrival but how wrong was I. Imagine driving through the Bluestacks curling up and down through them which in itself is beautiful but then driving along the top of them and seeing everything from a greater perspective well that is what it was like and I hope I can attach a few photos tomorrow to show you some of this beauty it is incredible. I have no more credit left tonight and I have so much more to say about the next phase in my journey so for now I will say goodnight, Aisling and I having fun playing house in the motorhome Xmass tree and all, you can imagine the scenario!!!!
I continued up the coast towards Christchurch on sunday before meeting Aisling and enterd into this incredible area of to the east which had the name of being very french even though they only inhabited it for a decade or more before the english joined them in the 19th century. This is where Akaroa is and it was the end of my journey on sunday night. I was again not prepared for the dramatic change in the terrain, I entered an area of soft alpine hills, winding roads and the most incredible views. I climbed 7 kilometres that any rally driver would be proud of and then descended another 12 of similar winding roads to get to my final destination, it was exhilerating and just glorious. I came upon Barry Bay followed by Robinson Bay joined together by the sea and followed on by Children's Bay, I thought this is a good ome for my niece Jackie and her Kiwi hubbie Craig and the new addition to their family in Feb and a healthy sibling for Maggie May. The fact that french bay was in there somewhere was a little eerie but so sign of schorderet Bay so no spookiness there. I enjoyed a lovely evening in the hills in my wonderful motorhome overlooking Akaroa with a G n T a beautiful moon and stars that Gabs tells me are not the same as ours but I can't understand that anyway thats for anothe day.
The next day I toured the little 'french' village which was quaint and attractive and then headed off to collect no. 1 child. I took the scenic route out of there which I initially thought could not be as beautiful as my arrival but how wrong was I. Imagine driving through the Bluestacks curling up and down through them which in itself is beautiful but then driving along the top of them and seeing everything from a greater perspective well that is what it was like and I hope I can attach a few photos tomorrow to show you some of this beauty it is incredible. I have no more credit left tonight and I have so much more to say about the next phase in my journey so for now I will say goodnight, Aisling and I having fun playing house in the motorhome Xmass tree and all, you can imagine the scenario!!!!
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Queenstown with Gabriel
Well it was a wonderful few days in Queenstown with Gabriel, he really knows how to enjoy the good things in life and he introduced me to some of the bst eating establishments not 4star but I have to say the food was very good everywhere I wish I could say the same for the wine, I'm still looking! The Botswana Butchery where he works is a really nice place with wonderful open fires everywhere not that you need them now but it is house policy!
We went for a few lovely drives and he really knows how to do the tour guide bit and obviously his love of the area helps. I went off a did my own thing and found a lovely little area with a nice lake where I had my first two swims and a bit of sunbathing the first since I left home believe it or not, Bangladesh not being suitable in the area I was in.
My impressions so far are of beautiful countryside, mountains, lakes, winding roads and a simple lifestyle (well maybe not in the bigger towns). There is no pretention, no overt show of wealth in that nothing is very flashy yet everyone seems comfortable. Enjoyment is being with people and doing fun things together, the other day I watched men, women and children standing on surf boards with one paddle and going out into the middle of the lake beside each other and chatting away, this went on for hours even the dog got on board! Now they do go in for all the bungy jumping, sky diving etc. but that is mainly the tourists.
I left Gabriel on Friday to travel south to Invercargill to visit the inlaws of my niece Jackie, Craig's parents Margaret and Doug. I travelled down along the Lake that Queenstown is situated on (forget name!) and it was so hot I pulled into the side of the lake took out my wee chair, made a coffee and sat and read my book for an hour it was bliss, have home will travel it is the only way to do it. The mountains were majestic and the drive to Invercargill was glorious and again I felt like I was the only one on the road, I did come accross one roadside pub near the end where the whole community seemed to be outside partying, it must have been the end of the working day on the farms but it was reassuring to see ans i am still not convinced that other powers are not working the farms.
Visited Craig's parents today and they gave me a great welcome both looking very well and in good form and have a lovely comfortable home and small farm holding, we had fresh carrots and potatoes form the ground which Doug was very proud of. The drive from Invercargill through the south east via the Catlins was lovely and not what I expected, it reminded me very much when I got into it of home. I could have been anywhere through the gap around Raphoe at times and Ramelton and then into the wee north with the drumlins of Monaghan thrown in, maybe a wee bit bigger, it really waas very reminiscent of home. This was varied for about a half an hour with a rain forest comprising of so many varieties of plants and trees at one stage I felt like a little person in a giant forest as I think I was looking at white heather that was as tall as trees. To confirm what the area was like I was not disappointed on leaving the Catlins to be showered on so maybe that is par for the course. It was so different to the grandeur and huge open spaces that I had got used to that it really came as a shock. I am en route up the east coast to collect Aisling in Christchurch on Monday and I am going to watch the penguins strut their stuff tomorrow so looking forward to that. I'll say goodnight and if someone can please let me know if the photos arrived I would be delighted.
We went for a few lovely drives and he really knows how to do the tour guide bit and obviously his love of the area helps. I went off a did my own thing and found a lovely little area with a nice lake where I had my first two swims and a bit of sunbathing the first since I left home believe it or not, Bangladesh not being suitable in the area I was in.
My impressions so far are of beautiful countryside, mountains, lakes, winding roads and a simple lifestyle (well maybe not in the bigger towns). There is no pretention, no overt show of wealth in that nothing is very flashy yet everyone seems comfortable. Enjoyment is being with people and doing fun things together, the other day I watched men, women and children standing on surf boards with one paddle and going out into the middle of the lake beside each other and chatting away, this went on for hours even the dog got on board! Now they do go in for all the bungy jumping, sky diving etc. but that is mainly the tourists.
I left Gabriel on Friday to travel south to Invercargill to visit the inlaws of my niece Jackie, Craig's parents Margaret and Doug. I travelled down along the Lake that Queenstown is situated on (forget name!) and it was so hot I pulled into the side of the lake took out my wee chair, made a coffee and sat and read my book for an hour it was bliss, have home will travel it is the only way to do it. The mountains were majestic and the drive to Invercargill was glorious and again I felt like I was the only one on the road, I did come accross one roadside pub near the end where the whole community seemed to be outside partying, it must have been the end of the working day on the farms but it was reassuring to see ans i am still not convinced that other powers are not working the farms.
Visited Craig's parents today and they gave me a great welcome both looking very well and in good form and have a lovely comfortable home and small farm holding, we had fresh carrots and potatoes form the ground which Doug was very proud of. The drive from Invercargill through the south east via the Catlins was lovely and not what I expected, it reminded me very much when I got into it of home. I could have been anywhere through the gap around Raphoe at times and Ramelton and then into the wee north with the drumlins of Monaghan thrown in, maybe a wee bit bigger, it really waas very reminiscent of home. This was varied for about a half an hour with a rain forest comprising of so many varieties of plants and trees at one stage I felt like a little person in a giant forest as I think I was looking at white heather that was as tall as trees. To confirm what the area was like I was not disappointed on leaving the Catlins to be showered on so maybe that is par for the course. It was so different to the grandeur and huge open spaces that I had got used to that it really came as a shock. I am en route up the east coast to collect Aisling in Christchurch on Monday and I am going to watch the penguins strut their stuff tomorrow so looking forward to that. I'll say goodnight and if someone can please let me know if the photos arrived I would be delighted.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Geraldine to Queenstown 12th Dec.
Well it has been a wonderful journey and I have decided to describe it as it appeared to me both through sensation and visually.
I awoke to a beautiful day in Geraldine and after back up and storing everything away (there's a lot of work to this 'Glamping' - glamourous camping!)
I headed into the village/town as it was described as being an interesting place to visit. I walked around and had the most overpowering feeling that I had visited its sister town in northern Sweden for the midnight sun about 4 years ago. It was cute but again very quiet, everyone is so polite and friendly in a calm way, different. En route out of town to add to my earlier feeling I saw and they were the only herd I've seen young reindeer so what do you think of that?
Then I headed into the hills the 'Bluestacks' to be precise and was surrounded by whins - the soft kind - foxgloves and similar terrain and guess where it ended - in 'Frosses' Burkes Pass to be exact! I then drove through landscapre that resembled the Jura in France, really beautiful. Next the terrain changed again and I will try to describe the impact this had on me. You know the Pettigo hills in a profusion of colour either with Rhodedendron and whins or gorse and the spectacular effect this has, well I came upon, quite suddenly, a spectacular profusion of colour, first of all along the road sides about twenty feet in width but afterwards further into the fields so that it looked like colourful carpets. This wonderful spectacle was a combination of various coloured lupins, purple, aubergine, salmon, pink, cream of all hues and I hope that the photos I took will do this sight justice. This continued for miles.
I was becoming bewitched with all of this when I saw what I thought was a herd of mousey coloured calves but were in fact sheep, I presume merino but much bigger than any others I had seen. Then I saw this giant bale of silage coming off the back of a machine, now I mean huge about 50 feet long in one plastic cover so of course I thought of my 'estate manager' and how he would cope with this and next thing I see is a sign on the side of the road 'Irishman Creek' and it would suit him well as there wasn't a drop of liquid in it!
Now this all took place over about 2/3 hours but the scenery was so varied and just as suddenly as I saw the carpet of lupins I arrived in mountains which brought me back to Iran. Beautiful, majestic with beautiful lakes but bare and bald on the surface. I continued onto the last quarter of my journey which was very tiring and was a bit like rallying around Mont Blanc except in a Motorhome and difficult with strong crosswinds so I was glad when that 150 kilomtres came to an end.
I arrived to the outskirts of Queenstown in the evening sun and was definitely here before. It bears an uncanny resemblance to Annecy, magnificent mountains, incredible lake that goes on for ever and just incredibly beautiful. Similarities end there, it is smaller, less pretentious and the people are so friendly. I called my man and after a few wrong turns, parked and waited until I saw this unmistakeable swagger in the distance and got out for my big hug. Well the cool dude stayed very calm and didn't brake into a trot but the hug was good. Mammy did mammy and said a few things but he put me in my place! It was strange for him and he went round introducing me as 'this is my wee mammy' and I had to follow on with the Evanna bit. He is in great form, looking good and loves it here and we are having a great time together going around the place, so I'll leave it at that and save some for another day.
I awoke to a beautiful day in Geraldine and after back up and storing everything away (there's a lot of work to this 'Glamping' - glamourous camping!)
I headed into the village/town as it was described as being an interesting place to visit. I walked around and had the most overpowering feeling that I had visited its sister town in northern Sweden for the midnight sun about 4 years ago. It was cute but again very quiet, everyone is so polite and friendly in a calm way, different. En route out of town to add to my earlier feeling I saw and they were the only herd I've seen young reindeer so what do you think of that?
Then I headed into the hills the 'Bluestacks' to be precise and was surrounded by whins - the soft kind - foxgloves and similar terrain and guess where it ended - in 'Frosses' Burkes Pass to be exact! I then drove through landscapre that resembled the Jura in France, really beautiful. Next the terrain changed again and I will try to describe the impact this had on me. You know the Pettigo hills in a profusion of colour either with Rhodedendron and whins or gorse and the spectacular effect this has, well I came upon, quite suddenly, a spectacular profusion of colour, first of all along the road sides about twenty feet in width but afterwards further into the fields so that it looked like colourful carpets. This wonderful spectacle was a combination of various coloured lupins, purple, aubergine, salmon, pink, cream of all hues and I hope that the photos I took will do this sight justice. This continued for miles.
I was becoming bewitched with all of this when I saw what I thought was a herd of mousey coloured calves but were in fact sheep, I presume merino but much bigger than any others I had seen. Then I saw this giant bale of silage coming off the back of a machine, now I mean huge about 50 feet long in one plastic cover so of course I thought of my 'estate manager' and how he would cope with this and next thing I see is a sign on the side of the road 'Irishman Creek' and it would suit him well as there wasn't a drop of liquid in it!
Now this all took place over about 2/3 hours but the scenery was so varied and just as suddenly as I saw the carpet of lupins I arrived in mountains which brought me back to Iran. Beautiful, majestic with beautiful lakes but bare and bald on the surface. I continued onto the last quarter of my journey which was very tiring and was a bit like rallying around Mont Blanc except in a Motorhome and difficult with strong crosswinds so I was glad when that 150 kilomtres came to an end.
I arrived to the outskirts of Queenstown in the evening sun and was definitely here before. It bears an uncanny resemblance to Annecy, magnificent mountains, incredible lake that goes on for ever and just incredibly beautiful. Similarities end there, it is smaller, less pretentious and the people are so friendly. I called my man and after a few wrong turns, parked and waited until I saw this unmistakeable swagger in the distance and got out for my big hug. Well the cool dude stayed very calm and didn't brake into a trot but the hug was good. Mammy did mammy and said a few things but he put me in my place! It was strange for him and he went round introducing me as 'this is my wee mammy' and I had to follow on with the Evanna bit. He is in great form, looking good and loves it here and we are having a great time together going around the place, so I'll leave it at that and save some for another day.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Bangladesh to New Zealand
Well there couldn't have been more of a contrast as between Bdesh and Singapore although I was only in the airport having visited the city many years ago. I had a transit room and slept for 6 hours, thank God that capacity has never failed me yet! When refreshed I went on the sky trains around the outside of the aiport buildings which overlooked pristine gardens full of shrubs and trees neatly covering the roadsides. Taxis lined in military fashion all along one side of the road and not one person in sight. It was bizarre and eerie, after Bangladesh I thought very sad after all there are over 4 million people living in Singapore.
I treated my pinkies to a wonderful foot massage but there were moments when I felt as if she was stripping the veins in my leg without an anaesthetic! I did mention that I thought I had requested reflexology but she promptly told me that my calves neede work done! She told me the population of Sing. and that it was very easy to get around on the buses, not too crowded, anyone from Dublin bus listening?!
The shopping malls in the airport were incredible and you could buy just about anything so Santa had a bit of fun.
Then off to NZ and I must say whatever kind of a plane I was in economy was very comfortable and not too bad for a 10 hour flight. My first impression coming into land was 'circling over some Irish small farmlands, very green and yes even a possible reflection of the Bluestacks in the distance'. Christchurch airport itself is somewhere between Knock and Derry! Long custom clearance but then got to the airport hotel and yes slept for another 6 hours godbless me. Got up had something to eat and bed again by midnight and slept through until morning, how many of our politicians have such a clear conscience?!
Finally myself and my motorhome met for the first time and I think we are going to get along just fine. There's a bit of hauling and pulling flexes and tubes which is not very dignified but other than that we should be ok. Well I spent 2 weeks in Bangladesh and had no problem with anyone undersnding me but I'm afraid they don't get my accent here nor I theirs at times so it will be fun.
When I left the Motorhome rental park I took a wrong turn and 'toured' for about 50 kilometers and only saw 2 people that I could stop and ask directions off and that proved to be something, I think a Kerryman settled here many years ago. I passed Robinson's road, any connection Craig and eventually got to my destination which was another shopping mall this time to buy essentials for my travelling companion.
Hit the road again en route to Queenstown where Gabriel is; meeting Aisling next week. Stopped in a KIWI park in Geraldine where I am writing this blog from. I have to say that so far though the countryside has been very monotonous to drive through. Once again thousands of acres of prime agriculture land with huge herds of cattle, I have never seen such large herds it reminds me of the old cowboy movies when they were moving cattle for days on end, younger generation tune out?? But hardly anyone in sight.
Heading into the mountains towards Queenstown so looking forward to that scenery and on that note I'll say goodbye for now.
I treated my pinkies to a wonderful foot massage but there were moments when I felt as if she was stripping the veins in my leg without an anaesthetic! I did mention that I thought I had requested reflexology but she promptly told me that my calves neede work done! She told me the population of Sing. and that it was very easy to get around on the buses, not too crowded, anyone from Dublin bus listening?!
The shopping malls in the airport were incredible and you could buy just about anything so Santa had a bit of fun.
Then off to NZ and I must say whatever kind of a plane I was in economy was very comfortable and not too bad for a 10 hour flight. My first impression coming into land was 'circling over some Irish small farmlands, very green and yes even a possible reflection of the Bluestacks in the distance'. Christchurch airport itself is somewhere between Knock and Derry! Long custom clearance but then got to the airport hotel and yes slept for another 6 hours godbless me. Got up had something to eat and bed again by midnight and slept through until morning, how many of our politicians have such a clear conscience?!
Finally myself and my motorhome met for the first time and I think we are going to get along just fine. There's a bit of hauling and pulling flexes and tubes which is not very dignified but other than that we should be ok. Well I spent 2 weeks in Bangladesh and had no problem with anyone undersnding me but I'm afraid they don't get my accent here nor I theirs at times so it will be fun.
When I left the Motorhome rental park I took a wrong turn and 'toured' for about 50 kilometers and only saw 2 people that I could stop and ask directions off and that proved to be something, I think a Kerryman settled here many years ago. I passed Robinson's road, any connection Craig and eventually got to my destination which was another shopping mall this time to buy essentials for my travelling companion.
Hit the road again en route to Queenstown where Gabriel is; meeting Aisling next week. Stopped in a KIWI park in Geraldine where I am writing this blog from. I have to say that so far though the countryside has been very monotonous to drive through. Once again thousands of acres of prime agriculture land with huge herds of cattle, I have never seen such large herds it reminds me of the old cowboy movies when they were moving cattle for days on end, younger generation tune out?? But hardly anyone in sight.
Heading into the mountains towards Queenstown so looking forward to that scenery and on that note I'll say goodbye for now.
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Last days in Dhaka
Just winding down now before I leave in just under 4 hours for the airport and off to New Zealand via Singapore. I have been been shopping for bits and bobs and generally just switching off. I found one of my little gems of shops that I used to know but it tried to confuse me by changing its name but I found it and was like a child in a toy shop with decorations that many of you would recognise from Shore Cottage.
The traffic is a nightmare, a journey that used to take 20/30minutes can now take up to 11/2 - 2 hours, there are young students who spend 5 hours in a bus every day to get to school! I have found it very difficult to get my bearings this time with all the skyscrapers going up and don't recognise my own home area even standing outside it!
I stood in my bathroom yesterday morning and looked out a high window at skyscrapers going up opposite, you could be in any major city but then, even though we are 6 stories up I heard the wheelo of the rickshaws turning, their bells ringing, their movement along the the road. This was in unison with the cars honking their horns, hammerings at different tempos and on different surfaces, sheets of tin sounding as if they were bbeing played like a 'digeridoo' and yet this cacophony of sounds can be individually identified.
I have eaten the most wonderful food, we have no idea how wonderful and subtle this food is with flavours and aromas that tease but don't overpower, I think I'll have to seriously try my hand at this when I go home and give some of you an evening to remember.
As I say goodbye to Dhaka and Bangladesh my strongest impression is how women have been empowered (a word I hate but it works here) they have developed as a major part of a growing nation, they are resilient, funny and know what they want. They can speak up for themselves, rich and poor alike and given the resources will be the future of Bangladesh.
So much has changed since I first came here 30 years ago and so much has stayed the same, it will take time and I hope that they do not lose everything in their rush to keep up with the developed world ( what is that look at Ireland!) They are a beautiful handsome people and I have become aware of more people laughing and there is a positiveness about.
On departing from the north and Saidpur we travelled through 1,000's of acres of agricultural land being harvested and resown with rice paddi and wheat, did you know that it was Aengus Finucane who introduced wheat to Bangladesh?! It was beautiful, imagine flat land as far as the eye can see ther are very few hilols in Bangladesh and those are around the edges. People, men, women and children all working together and pulling/pushing loads that we could only imagine. They are a hard working people and deserve our support in the right areas and I have seen with my own eyes some of those areas and the people benefiting and am proud to be a member of Concern. Yes everything is not perfect but so long as we learn and adapt and improve that is what is important. I have given my impressions and I hope I was objective and fair that is what good governance is all about. Do you think they will ask me to be an advisor to the new Government when I return?!!
I am going to sign off now and bid Bangladesh a very fond farewell and as they approach their 39th anniversary of their Independance on the 16th Dec. I hope those that really want to see their nation develop and give everyone an even chance can have their voices heard and there are many. They have some very good articles in their paper and extremely well and beautifully written I recommend that you try to google it, its called The Daily Star. Allah Hafez Bangladesh, Lovely, Nurul, Shuchi, Hashem, Mr Mateen, Mr Hamid, all the staff in Concern who were so kind to me and the couple that are nearly as old as me and who remember a great big dhonnabad to you all.
The traffic is a nightmare, a journey that used to take 20/30minutes can now take up to 11/2 - 2 hours, there are young students who spend 5 hours in a bus every day to get to school! I have found it very difficult to get my bearings this time with all the skyscrapers going up and don't recognise my own home area even standing outside it!
I stood in my bathroom yesterday morning and looked out a high window at skyscrapers going up opposite, you could be in any major city but then, even though we are 6 stories up I heard the wheelo of the rickshaws turning, their bells ringing, their movement along the the road. This was in unison with the cars honking their horns, hammerings at different tempos and on different surfaces, sheets of tin sounding as if they were bbeing played like a 'digeridoo' and yet this cacophony of sounds can be individually identified.
I have eaten the most wonderful food, we have no idea how wonderful and subtle this food is with flavours and aromas that tease but don't overpower, I think I'll have to seriously try my hand at this when I go home and give some of you an evening to remember.
As I say goodbye to Dhaka and Bangladesh my strongest impression is how women have been empowered (a word I hate but it works here) they have developed as a major part of a growing nation, they are resilient, funny and know what they want. They can speak up for themselves, rich and poor alike and given the resources will be the future of Bangladesh.
So much has changed since I first came here 30 years ago and so much has stayed the same, it will take time and I hope that they do not lose everything in their rush to keep up with the developed world ( what is that look at Ireland!) They are a beautiful handsome people and I have become aware of more people laughing and there is a positiveness about.
On departing from the north and Saidpur we travelled through 1,000's of acres of agricultural land being harvested and resown with rice paddi and wheat, did you know that it was Aengus Finucane who introduced wheat to Bangladesh?! It was beautiful, imagine flat land as far as the eye can see ther are very few hilols in Bangladesh and those are around the edges. People, men, women and children all working together and pulling/pushing loads that we could only imagine. They are a hard working people and deserve our support in the right areas and I have seen with my own eyes some of those areas and the people benefiting and am proud to be a member of Concern. Yes everything is not perfect but so long as we learn and adapt and improve that is what is important. I have given my impressions and I hope I was objective and fair that is what good governance is all about. Do you think they will ask me to be an advisor to the new Government when I return?!!
I am going to sign off now and bid Bangladesh a very fond farewell and as they approach their 39th anniversary of their Independance on the 16th Dec. I hope those that really want to see their nation develop and give everyone an even chance can have their voices heard and there are many. They have some very good articles in their paper and extremely well and beautifully written I recommend that you try to google it, its called The Daily Star. Allah Hafez Bangladesh, Lovely, Nurul, Shuchi, Hashem, Mr Mateen, Mr Hamid, all the staff in Concern who were so kind to me and the couple that are nearly as old as me and who remember a great big dhonnabad to you all.
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Saidpur to Dhaka 3rd/4th Dec.2010
Well arriving in Saidpur Friday morning was great and the countryside around was again beautifulwith that early morning chill that carries a promise of a warmer noon. It had changed not like Dhaka but enough to confuse me. We visited the house where I lived and where much of my courtship took place and though recognisable it was seedier than when we lived there the photos will tell the tale. Especially for Fionnuala and Bernie I have photos of the cooking and 'fuel' which you might want to share with the youth from Glen!
We visited the old haunts and the centre where they make the calenders and those of you in receipt of these annually will be all glad to know that I managed to get some different designs this year, a few a throw back to the old days, though it will be in the spring. We then visited a group that used to live in the slums where I worked and have been resettled and have a very strong committee once again made up of females, that is the biggest change I have observed in Bangladesh and hopefully they will have the support to continue this forward movement. They greeted us with beautiful flowers and literally pilled me in different directions showing the new developments and little enterprises, there was one house and when they opened the gate there was a cow and calf eating on the front 'veranda' about the size of a large bathroom so nothing is impossible. I had my first rickshaw ride in Saidpur but I'm afraid the seat depth (front to back) was a great test to me remaining secure especially as the 'sideroads'are full of humps and bumps and I did feel very sorry for the poor Rickshaw Wallah!
Back to Dhaka yesterday and by the time we arrived after a 9 hour journey I was tired, hot and humid but back in the swing of things today it appears to be a little cooler. Still in the middle of wedding organisation and Irish translations so probably best I won't be around to add anymore to the tension that is building!
Keep warm and safe!
We visited the old haunts and the centre where they make the calenders and those of you in receipt of these annually will be all glad to know that I managed to get some different designs this year, a few a throw back to the old days, though it will be in the spring. We then visited a group that used to live in the slums where I worked and have been resettled and have a very strong committee once again made up of females, that is the biggest change I have observed in Bangladesh and hopefully they will have the support to continue this forward movement. They greeted us with beautiful flowers and literally pilled me in different directions showing the new developments and little enterprises, there was one house and when they opened the gate there was a cow and calf eating on the front 'veranda' about the size of a large bathroom so nothing is impossible. I had my first rickshaw ride in Saidpur but I'm afraid the seat depth (front to back) was a great test to me remaining secure especially as the 'sideroads'are full of humps and bumps and I did feel very sorry for the poor Rickshaw Wallah!
Back to Dhaka yesterday and by the time we arrived after a 9 hour journey I was tired, hot and humid but back in the swing of things today it appears to be a little cooler. Still in the middle of wedding organisation and Irish translations so probably best I won't be around to add anymore to the tension that is building!
Keep warm and safe!
Friday, December 3, 2010
Dhaka to Saidpur via Lalmonirhat
What an adventure and on the eve of my departure from Saidpur I hope I can recall the details for those of you who remember and can describe them visually for those of you who have never had the chance of the experience.
We left Dhaka at 8am on Wednesday, Tuesday being the original date of departure but due to a national strike called by the Opposition noone is allowed to travel on that day. Leaving Dhaka went on forever and at one stage when I asked where we were and the response was Savar, where all the old and new brass came/comes from and many of you would have seen much of this in Shore Cottage (by the way there is some under the wash stand outside downstairs bathroom feel free to polish!). Well in the 80's Savar was in the countryside and where there was a dairy farm, nowdays it is well and truly a part of Dhaka. Eventually we did get to the countryside and it was beautiful with that early morning air which at home resembles a lovely October day with many different crops being cut and new ones planted, they can get 3 crops a year in some areas.
Now for those of you who have had the privilege of accompanying me in my car I realise where I acquired my road sense and am finally among my own after all this is where I learned to drive! The journey took about 8/9 hours before we reached Lalmonirhat, but I was never bored. The whole way I appreciated all the changes and development though in doubtful taste much of it and yet alongside all of this nothing of much of the living conditions for many have changed at all. For those of you uninitiated think back to an old film about Jesus or those times and many of the homes I saw and visited would still reflect that way of life. Another thing that was in evidence was the appearance of healhier people/children and not too many beggars, mainly peddlars, but if you think of the changes in our own society over thirty years there is still abject poverty here but they handle it better than us.
Anyway we arrived in Lalmonirhat and drove to a dubious looking hotel, Lovely tried to warn us but for some reason it could not be changed. Now I can handle a lot, my accomodation tonight brings me back 30 years and is not even up to those standards but I'm a big girl, I won't go into some of the more intersting of God's creatures that passed me by this evening in the house! Anyway back to the only hotel in town, I was offered the choice of 4 'en suite' bedrooms none of which really took my fancy. The rooms I could have coped with but Nurul knew I was not going to go to sleep in the bed and so insisted we looked for something else which we finally found and was 4 star by comparison at least the beds were bug free, fresh would stretch the imagination but they were clean and I was relieved. Sleep came dripping slow but it did come!
That evening we walked around the town/bazaar some of it by candle light and we came accross many dogs a couple of them getting nasty with each other and the thought did cross my mind of how wise was I to have left the rabies vaccine back?!!
The next morning bright and early we went to the office of Concern's partners in this area and had breakfast and then headed of to the Chars (pronounced chawrs) for the day. Now I need to explain what a Char is for you to understand my sceal. 90% of river water in Bangladesh originates in India and Nepal and India has a dam that keeps the water for irrigation during the dry season and when the rains come they release it and it floods Bangladesh especially the area I was visiting. Think of sand bars when the tide is out and during the dry season these are islands that people move to, live on and cultivate, the silt from the flood water is very fertile. Now these Chars may be safe for a few seasons and other Chars are created but the uncertainty for households is difficult. The area we visited was about the size of Inishowen and if you can imagine water the width of Lough Erne flowing through it with it broken into different Chars you get a rough picture.
We headed of on a lovely early drive to where we got a boat, many of these photos will follow later so hopefully that those will also help. The boat trip was beautiful if a bit doubtful in places as the depth of the water was less than knee deep at some moments and I did think I would be asked to evacuate to do a Ryan air on it, I was the only female but could give any of the men a run for their kilos unfortunately! By the way Dave Allen is reincarnated and alive and well in Bengali camouflage and even got his finger back. After about 45 minutes we arrived at our destination which was one of the many island chars we passed all flat and at eye level from my sitting position on the boat so you can see any rise in water is a threat.
We were met by a 4 woman welcoming committee who were very enthusiatic and delighted to see us. We walked for about 20minutes and this was not easy walking as it was soft sand in places and we all know what that is like to walk on or otherwise on a path about a foot wide in between the crops as land is of the essence. We ended up in the middle of one of many different community groups of women and boy were they assertive, able to talk, get their point accross and generally great fun. What amazed me was, gone was the deference to foreigners which I think is great, instead there is a mutual respect and an acknowledged equality between support workers and the women and ourselves. What really astounded me was the equality shared at a later meeting with representatives from other women's groups and the local 'council' made up of men and other male workers, something which would never have happened when I was working here. This was an enlightening and wonderful day and great to see the resilience which a 5 year project has helped develop and hopefully there will be support to enable these groups further without taking away this wonderful empowerment they all have achieved together, there was great community spirit and generosity towards each other. The rest of the afternoon followed on as above with a lot more walking and that is the main difficulty there is no possibility of building roads in shifting sands so they need to develop good coping and health care skills to survive. Any really sick person has to be carried in a 'sling' over this land. I was a tired but happy girl afer the day and the market that greeted us on disembarking was just the final perfect touch, the smells that assailed us from a fusion of spices that I could not name but my memory has banked so well. A variety of fresh vegetables that we never see and many other aromatic scents that I will never know but in the dusk of the evening and literally hundreds of people milling around in an area the size of the diamond it has just added to a calender of events that I hope I can recall at times when I need an injection of eastern delight.
Ok I have to leave Saidpur to another day as I am too tired and must get my beauty sleep.
We left Dhaka at 8am on Wednesday, Tuesday being the original date of departure but due to a national strike called by the Opposition noone is allowed to travel on that day. Leaving Dhaka went on forever and at one stage when I asked where we were and the response was Savar, where all the old and new brass came/comes from and many of you would have seen much of this in Shore Cottage (by the way there is some under the wash stand outside downstairs bathroom feel free to polish!). Well in the 80's Savar was in the countryside and where there was a dairy farm, nowdays it is well and truly a part of Dhaka. Eventually we did get to the countryside and it was beautiful with that early morning air which at home resembles a lovely October day with many different crops being cut and new ones planted, they can get 3 crops a year in some areas.
Now for those of you who have had the privilege of accompanying me in my car I realise where I acquired my road sense and am finally among my own after all this is where I learned to drive! The journey took about 8/9 hours before we reached Lalmonirhat, but I was never bored. The whole way I appreciated all the changes and development though in doubtful taste much of it and yet alongside all of this nothing of much of the living conditions for many have changed at all. For those of you uninitiated think back to an old film about Jesus or those times and many of the homes I saw and visited would still reflect that way of life. Another thing that was in evidence was the appearance of healhier people/children and not too many beggars, mainly peddlars, but if you think of the changes in our own society over thirty years there is still abject poverty here but they handle it better than us.
Anyway we arrived in Lalmonirhat and drove to a dubious looking hotel, Lovely tried to warn us but for some reason it could not be changed. Now I can handle a lot, my accomodation tonight brings me back 30 years and is not even up to those standards but I'm a big girl, I won't go into some of the more intersting of God's creatures that passed me by this evening in the house! Anyway back to the only hotel in town, I was offered the choice of 4 'en suite' bedrooms none of which really took my fancy. The rooms I could have coped with but Nurul knew I was not going to go to sleep in the bed and so insisted we looked for something else which we finally found and was 4 star by comparison at least the beds were bug free, fresh would stretch the imagination but they were clean and I was relieved. Sleep came dripping slow but it did come!
That evening we walked around the town/bazaar some of it by candle light and we came accross many dogs a couple of them getting nasty with each other and the thought did cross my mind of how wise was I to have left the rabies vaccine back?!!
The next morning bright and early we went to the office of Concern's partners in this area and had breakfast and then headed of to the Chars (pronounced chawrs) for the day. Now I need to explain what a Char is for you to understand my sceal. 90% of river water in Bangladesh originates in India and Nepal and India has a dam that keeps the water for irrigation during the dry season and when the rains come they release it and it floods Bangladesh especially the area I was visiting. Think of sand bars when the tide is out and during the dry season these are islands that people move to, live on and cultivate, the silt from the flood water is very fertile. Now these Chars may be safe for a few seasons and other Chars are created but the uncertainty for households is difficult. The area we visited was about the size of Inishowen and if you can imagine water the width of Lough Erne flowing through it with it broken into different Chars you get a rough picture.
We headed of on a lovely early drive to where we got a boat, many of these photos will follow later so hopefully that those will also help. The boat trip was beautiful if a bit doubtful in places as the depth of the water was less than knee deep at some moments and I did think I would be asked to evacuate to do a Ryan air on it, I was the only female but could give any of the men a run for their kilos unfortunately! By the way Dave Allen is reincarnated and alive and well in Bengali camouflage and even got his finger back. After about 45 minutes we arrived at our destination which was one of the many island chars we passed all flat and at eye level from my sitting position on the boat so you can see any rise in water is a threat.
We were met by a 4 woman welcoming committee who were very enthusiatic and delighted to see us. We walked for about 20minutes and this was not easy walking as it was soft sand in places and we all know what that is like to walk on or otherwise on a path about a foot wide in between the crops as land is of the essence. We ended up in the middle of one of many different community groups of women and boy were they assertive, able to talk, get their point accross and generally great fun. What amazed me was, gone was the deference to foreigners which I think is great, instead there is a mutual respect and an acknowledged equality between support workers and the women and ourselves. What really astounded me was the equality shared at a later meeting with representatives from other women's groups and the local 'council' made up of men and other male workers, something which would never have happened when I was working here. This was an enlightening and wonderful day and great to see the resilience which a 5 year project has helped develop and hopefully there will be support to enable these groups further without taking away this wonderful empowerment they all have achieved together, there was great community spirit and generosity towards each other. The rest of the afternoon followed on as above with a lot more walking and that is the main difficulty there is no possibility of building roads in shifting sands so they need to develop good coping and health care skills to survive. Any really sick person has to be carried in a 'sling' over this land. I was a tired but happy girl afer the day and the market that greeted us on disembarking was just the final perfect touch, the smells that assailed us from a fusion of spices that I could not name but my memory has banked so well. A variety of fresh vegetables that we never see and many other aromatic scents that I will never know but in the dusk of the evening and literally hundreds of people milling around in an area the size of the diamond it has just added to a calender of events that I hope I can recall at times when I need an injection of eastern delight.
Ok I have to leave Saidpur to another day as I am too tired and must get my beauty sleep.
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